After almost one full year living aboard our trawler ‘Takitez II’, we arrived back in Goderich this morning (Aug. 12/10).  It has been a wonderful adventure travelling the waters of the American Great Loop with sidetrips to the Tennessee River and the Abacos in the Bahamas.
Over 5,000 nautical miles later, many beautiful ports and lots of wonderful friends on the way, we are back in our homeport and
so thankful for having had the opportunity for this dream

Glads from Sister Grace's Garden

of a lifetime adventure!   
Over the next few weeks, we will try and reorganize our lives back on hard ground (eagerly waiting the next opportunity when the ‘water calls’).  

I will update all our travels in Canada at a later date so please check back with us then.  For the present, we are truly enjoying the reunions with family and friends and the remains of a lovely Canadian summer which is fast slipping away.  God Bless!

and faithful crew ‘Rosie and Rocky’

Saint-Ours (meaning bear) opened in 1849, and is part of the network making navigation possible between the St. Lawrence River, the Richelieu River, Lake Champlain and the Hudson River, thereby connecting Montreal to New York.

It is surprising to see the innovation used to construct this contemporary lock and dam, built on either side of Darvard Island. 

In 2001, Parks Canada inaugurated the Vianney-Legendre fish ladder.  This one-of-a-kind multi-species ladder is designed to facilitate fish migration.  It was built in accordance with a plan for protecting threatened species, in particular the Copper Redhorse, and contributes to maintaining the biodiversity of the Richelieu River.  The Copper Redhorse fish is an endangered species that is found nowhere else in the world except here in south-western Quebec.  It feeds almost exclusively on molluscs, which it crushes with molar-like teeth located in its throat.

Pathways have been carved out through the glades of the island to enable visitors to observe the flora and wildlife of this site.  Fourteen species of tree grow here on this small Darvard Island, including red pine, oak, ash and basswood. Picnic grounds and observation points have been provided at various areas so that visitors can enjoy seeing the pleasure boats coming through the locks.  

For Canada Day, there was a special celebration here with a few very special antique cars, face-painting for kids, a flag-raising ceremony and best of all…birthday cake!!!  Everyone received Canadian flags, pins and we all joined in singing O Canada… in French of course!  After newly returning to Canada from almost a one year absence, we especially appreciated the opportunity to share in this small, patriotic ceremony and found the people warm and welcoming.  Throughout the afternoon people stopped by to admire the boat and chat.  Two sisters, Marion and Evelyn who live nearby, were especially interested in our travels asking many questions and wanting to make sure we had enjoyed some Canada Day cake. 

We had planned for a nice dinner on board as a special celebration for Canada Day and our long anticipated homecoming.  Joe cooked up a lovely rib-eye steak, baked potatoes and mushrooms while I made a Caesar salad, all this savoured with our very own…Amarone red wine (we still had some of our homebrew left).   It felt so wonderful sitting here in this lovely place aboard our now truly Canadian ‘Takitez II’.

After this delicious meal, we decided to go for one more walk around the Park property.  By now all the afternoon Canada Day crowd had cleared and it was quiet and serene.  In talking with one of the locals, we learned that canoeists were expected to arrive shortly.  As they approached on the river, we noticed they were attired in authentic dress of the early 1600s to re-enact the solidarity of the union  between the early French settlers and the native Indians of the time.  They had canoed here from Chambly (28 miles).  Here they would set up camp for the night and leave for Trois-Rivieres, Canada’s Cultural Capital…celebrating more than 375 Years (1634-2009).

It was interesting to see them set up camp and prepare their meal of lentil and vegetable soup as darkness quickly approached.

The Chambly Canal, which has been used for navigation since 1843, is open to pleasure craft.  The canal played a primary role in the forestry products industry in Quebec and in the export of lumber to the US.  Building of the canal began in 1831, with its inauguration occurring in 1843.  The work was halted, several times, on account of funding problems, the rebellion of the Patriots, and a cholera epidemic.  Depending on the particular year, between 500 and 1,000 men worked on building the canal.

Twenty kilometres in length, the canal consists of nine locks, eight of which are still operated manually, and several swing, slide and lift bridges.  The stair locks are the only ones of their kind in Quebec.  Visitors can watch the lock operators at work, and take in the magnificent view over the Richelieu River.

As the day progressed, the wind became gusty and made for more difficult manouvreabily entering the locks.  We decided to spend the night at Chambly at the top end of the lock.  ‘ Not For Profit’ was there and we were very glad of their assistance to help tie up to the dock with the wind blowing against us.  Later, in talking with them, we learned there was a grocery store within walking distance so we were able to pick up a few provisions.  With tomorrow being Canada Day, it may not be possible to find a place open. 

When we returned from shopping, there was a concert in the Park across the canal with a band called “Missing Fingers”…very good entertainment for the night.  We could watch it all from our sundeck.  They were very good performers and even a passing rain storm didn’t deter the crowd of people there to see them.  Around 2200h, the band packed up and we enjoyed a quiet, restful evening.

While one officer filled out the paperwork and checked our passports, the other officer checked through the boat.  Rosie and I went for a short walk as he was not comfortable being in the boat with the dog onboard.  Everything went well and we encountered no hassles. 

Soon it was a matter of just paying the tax and duty, and we were free to leave. 

Takitez II was now a Canadian tax paid vessel free to cruise the waterways of its new homeland.  It felt good to be back!

 We proceeded a few miles up river to Fort Lennox where we docked at Parks Canada ferry wharf for the night.  The grounds here were beautiful, green and lush.  A great place to have an evening stroll and celebrate our homecoming!

 Fort Lennox was the third fortification built on the Isle-aux-Noix as a barrier to invasion along the Richelieu River from the south.  The island was first fortified by the French in 1759, but captured by the British in the next year.  In 1775, the Americans occupied the island as a base for their attack on Canada.  After they retreated, the British erected a new fort to deter further American invasion.  During the war of 1812, it protected an important naval base.  Later this fort was razed and a new masonry work, Fort Lennox, was built (1819-29) to guard the Canadian border.  It was garrisoned until 1870 and is now a National Historic Site of Canada.

Vergennes, VT free 48-Hr Dock

Vergennes is the first and smallest US city.  Our friends, Tom & Laurie Francis had recommended it to us during a cocktail hour back in Mechanicville.  It sits about 7 miles back off the Lake on Otter Creek and is a jewel to behold. 

There was a kid’s fishing tournament on at the docks when we arrived and we felt kind of bad taking dock space away from them but they welcomed us in.  It seemed to be well-organized and a great educational tool for the kids to learn and respect the sport of fishing.  The emphasis was on catch and release with extra points for doing so.  There was even a small pool set up where fish could recoup, if necessary, before being released back to the river.

The waterfall in view behind our sundeck was mesmerizing and made for a gorgeous back-fall for our two-evening stay here.  Again, the docks are complimentary 48-hr stays with electric and water.  We got the only 50 Amp plug. Below the Otter Creek Falls was the site of the Thomas Macdonough Shipyard, where the USS Saratoga was built in 40 days, and other ships launched that defeated the British at the Battle of Plattsburg, 1814. 

It was quite a climb up the hill to the main street for some of us exercising-lacking boat people.  We were surprised to find a bustling main street with lots of unique shops and restaurants.  It seems the thriving little city is helped by a Goodyear plant that produces helicopter parts. 

We can highly recommend The Black Sheep eatery…with its upscale food and reasonable prices for its gourmet flair.

Sunday we attended Mass at St. Peter’s Catholic Church while Terry & Carol attended another Church of their choice.  Carol and I enjoyed some time together in the afternoon walking the main street and browsing in some of the boutiques.  I tried on a stunning little sundress but resisted the temptation to splurge.   Joe was able to exchange a propane tank at the Rhino location uptown

 Burlington, VT

Monday morning we left for Burlington where we had reservations at Community Boat House Marina.  The cruise up was lovely in spite of a threatening rainstorm.  It is so nice boating on this beautiful lake with the blue coloured mountains in the distance.  The few hours passed quickly and we arrived in the pretty harbour of Burlington.  The staff was helpful, professional and welcoming.  This was a great location with the nearby Park, scenic lookout to the mountains and even a small sand beach where Rosie could swim.  The water here is so clean and clear.

We walked up College St. a few blocks to Church St.  This is a shopper and people-watcher paradise.  The bricked street is closed to traffic and extends for as long as one can see with stores, many inside/outside restaurants, and benches and sculptures in the courtyards.  The city theme is “The Cows Come Home to Burlington” and it is evident by the 37 ‘artsy’ cows that have been beautifully painted and displayed by many merchants on the streetscape.  Apparently there are five colleges/universities here which make for a youthful and diverse experience.  We spent a relaxing afternoon just walking and browsing…enjoying all that we could take in.  After a light menu at ‘3 Tomatoes Café’, we headed back to the marina and bid farewell to Terry & Carol.  They had arranged for a rental and would spend the next few days exploring some of the inland sights of Vermont.

We were glad to have news that Joe’s Garmin chip for Canada had arrived at the West Marine store finally.  He rode his bike the 3-mile distance (uphill both ways).  I spent the time mulling over Nexus rules and regulation for importing into Canada.  Since we would be declaring Takitez II when we crossed into Canada, it was important to have all our paperwork in order.  It had now been almost two years since taking ownership of our ‘pride and joy’ so we had lots of things to consider.

By 1100h, we were headed up Lake Champlain for our re-entry into Canada.  Our ETA at the Canadian Customs Wharf on the Richelieu would be 1530h.

In the late 1700s the most common route north from New York City to Canada was up the Hudson River to Fort Edward; then by land, a portage to Lake George and on to Canada via Lake Champlain.  All that changed in the early 1800s when the Champlain Canal was built.  Completed in 1822, the Canal provided an all water route from Waterford to Whitehall on Lake Champlain and points beyond.

Governor Dewitt Clinton’s Dream:

“As a bond of union between the Atlantic and Western states, it may prevent the dismemberment of the American Empire.  As an organ of communication between the Hudson, the Mississippi, the St. Lawrence, the Great Lakes of the north and west and their tributary rivers, it will create the greatest inland trade ever witnessed.  The most fertile and extensive regions of America will vial themselves of its facilities for a market.  All their surplus productions, whether of the soil, the forest, the mines, or the water, their fabrics of art and their supplies of foreign commodities, will concentrate in the city of New York, for transportation abroad or consumption at home.  Agriculture, manufactures, commerce, trade, navigation, and the arts will receive a correspondent encouragement.  The city will, in the course of time, become the granary of the world, the emporium of commerce, the seat of manufactures, the focus of great moneyed operations and the concentrating point of vast disposable, and accumulating capitals, which will stimulate, enliven, extend and reward the exertions of human labour and ingenuity, in all their processes and exhibitions.  And before the revolution of a century, the whole island of Manhattan, covered with inhabitants and replenished with a dense population, will constitute one vast city.”

‘Such was Clinton’s dream concerning the original Erie Canal—the canal which seems so small to us now but which was the Grand Canal of our forefathers—the canal which for many years was the model for canal-building throughout the world—the canal which more than any other single agency was responsible for the unprecedented development and prosperity that come not alone to New York State but to the states beyond its western border and even to the whole country in the first half of the nineteenth century.” – Roy G. Finch, State Engineer and Surveyor

 Today, “Barge Canal” is no longer an accurate description of the marine activity on the New York Canals.  Most cargo now is shipped by trains and trucks, but the canals remain a viable waterway for navigation for pleasure boats, tour boats, cruise ships, canoes and kayaks that ply the waters of the legendary Erie and the Champlain, Oswego and Cayuga-Seneca canals, which constitute the 524-mile New York State Canal System. 

 The original canal was very shallow and narrow compared to today’s canal.  By 1916 the Canal had been dredged to its present depth of 12 feet with a controlled height of 17’.

Takitez IIs height of 16’.9” (with Radar hood, KVH satellite dome and dinghy lift arm off) allows us to just squeak under.

 The New York Canals are a popular destination each year for thousands of pleasure boaters as well as visitors by land who follow the historic trade route that made New York the “Empire State.”  There are dozens of historic sites, museums, community festivals, charming port towns and bustling cities for visitors to re-live the early canal days when “hoggees” guided mule-drawn packet boats along the narrow towpaths.  Many of the towpaths today, have been transformed into Canalway Trail segments, extending over 220 miles for the enjoyment of outdoor enthusiasts who enjoy walking, biking, or hiking the scenic corridor.

Waterford, NY Free 48-Hr. Dock:

This is the start of the north bound New York Canal system and one of the earliest towns in America.  There is a Visitor’s Centre here run by local volunteers, free docks with hydro and water, several restaurants and two large grocery stores.  It is a lovely historic town to walk around and very welcoming to boaters. Here we met up with friends on ‘Tadpole’ (Tampa), ‘Eschelon’ (Tennessee) and lots of Canadian boats heading home.  We soon discover most of them are headed for the Erie Barge Canal and not the Lake Champlain route that we plan to take. 

While staying at the free dock, we show our appreciation by supporting the local businesses.  Prices are reasonable and we enjoyed a good old-fashioned breakfast almost as good as Kate’s back home.   It is a picturesque waterfront town and we really enjoyed our stay here.

Mechanicville, NY Free 48-Hr. Dock:

It is a striking view as we approach the south end of town and see the steeple of Assumption Parish in the foreground.  There is a 300’ long wall provided by the local Chamber of Commerce with 8 each 30 amp plugs.  With the Police Station just steps from the dock, there is an added feeling of security as we dock.  Joe discovers a pet grooming business just up the street called ‘Hoochie Poochie’.  We decided to give Rosie a spa day and booked her in for the full treatment.  She did a great job and Rosie was most appreciative.  The hot, humid weather had been causing her to shed a lot.

There is a beautiful Catholic church here, Assumption/St. Paul.  The Father’s Day service was great and the 0830h Mass was well attended.  From here, the ‘Ugly Rooster Café’ was highly recommended for breakfast so we decided to join the line-up on the street and celebrate Father’s Day in a special way.  The food was delicious!  Joe was treated to a great omelette with home fries, while I decided to try the Italian French Toast with mascarpone cream, orange zest and shaved chocolate…only for a special occasion!!!  We had enough for breakfast tomorrow.

 We enjoyed a happy hour with Gary & Carol Riehlman on ‘Antares’ from New Castle, New Hampshire; and Tom & Laurie Francis on ‘Not-For-Profit’ from Syracuse, NY.

Gary & Carol are liveaboards since 2007 and had many interesting tales to tell.  ‘Antares’ is a 46’ power cat that they have refurbished into a very comfortable ‘home on the water’.  Carole had some great homemade snacks and she graciously shared the recipes with me. 

The following morning, we gave Takitez II a thorough cleanup to remove the salt from her decks and stanchions.  From now on, we would only have fresh water for the rest of the cruise home.      

Schuylerville, NY Lock 5 48-Hr Free Dock;

We tied to the floating dock on the top side of the Lock right next to a Park.  There was no hydro here, and we were the only boat tied for the night.  It was a great spot to spend the night about 1 ½ mile out of Schuylerville and very quiet.  In the morning we rode our bicycles into town where Joe picked up some 15-amp plug ends.  Some of the businesses here are closed on Tuesdays… the bakery being one of them.  No sweets to tempt us today!

As we entered Lock 6, a photographer, John Carl D’Annibale from the Times Union out of Albany, NY was there to ask questions and photograph the Locking through.  Apparently, there has been news interest in the Champlain Canal with the dredging that is underway by Fort Edward.  An old GE plant that is now closed has been the subject of controversy over PCB’s that were found in the water.   http://www.timesunion.com

 Fort Edward, NY 48-Hr Free Dock:

The Yacht Basin here is right on a park in the town.  It is quite picturesque and so nice for walking and seeing the sights.  There is an old bridge behind us that adds nicely to the view off our sundeck.  There are baby ducks here so I have been feeding them some stale rice biscuits which they very much enjoy. 

Joe looked into getting diesel delivered here as we will not have enough to get through the more expensive areas of Montreal and Ottawa.  After calling several oil distributors, he finally found G.A. Bove & Sons would deliver to the wall and take credit card.  Most distributors do not want to deliver to boats because of the risk of spills.  It was a relief to be refilled again at a reasonable rate rather than pay the $3.62 – $4.00 a gallon some of the places further up are asking.

After having lunch at one of the diners up town, we walked west on the main street and found a beautiful, old Catholic Church…St. Joseph’s.  Though it is much larger than our St. Joseph’s was in Clinton, the front is similar with the difference being the bell tower on the opposite side.  The custodian, Mickey Carpenter, noticed us admiring the church and approached us to see if we would like to see inside.  He was kind enough to open the church and turn on the lights … wow…what a work of art!  The ceiling, all carved wood is magnificent.  He was such a dear man, and after chatting we discovered that Rosary prayers, and Mass would be celebrated in the morning in the small chapel off the Rectory.  We were invited to join them which we were pleased to do.  It was a small group of faithful parishioners and the service was done with great reverence.

In the afternoon, we caught the local transit bus and rode several miles to a mall.  There we picked up grocery supplies and Joe was able to get his 10W40 Rotella oil for doing an oil change.  We were back to the boat in a couple of hours.

There is a lot of setting up in the park tonight as vendors get ready for a festival on the w/e complete with rides and food booths.  The place will be crawling with people and loud music… but we will slip off in the morning and head north to Whitehall.  There we look forward to meeting our Daytona friends, Terry & Carol Bachi, who will join us onboard for a couple of days as we cruise part of Lake Champlain.  At last, a girlfriend to chat with…yeah!

Whitehall, Lock 12, NY 48-Hr. Free Dock: 

Whitehall is known as the birthplace of the US Navy.  The first small navy of 12 vessels was constructed here in 1776.  The vessels were used by Benedict Arnold to prevent the British from invading the colonies. 

“On October 11, 1776, at Valcour Island off the western shore of Lake Champlain, a naval battle took place that may well have decided the fate of the American Revolution.  Although they fought valiantly, the Americans lost the battle.  However, they bought valuable time for the American forces to gather, arm and prepare for the British Campaign of 1777 that ended with the American victory of Saratoga, the “Turning Point” of the war.  Valcour was the first naval battle of strategic importance during the Revolution, making Whitehall, the place where America’s first fleet was assembled, the Birthplace of the United States Navy.

The hero of the Battle of Valcour Island was Benedict Arnold, one of the colonies most courageous and resourceful military leaders and who was much revered by his men.  Anticipating the British would use the lakes as an invasion route to split the revolted colonies in two, Arnold scraped together a fleet capable of at least delaying a British advance along Lake Champlain from Canada. 

 Except for ships captured the year before, all of the ships were constructed during the summer of 1776 at Skenesborough from trees cut in the forests near the settlement.  Carpenters, riggers and blacksmiths were imported from as far away as Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut and Philadelphia to build the ships, using lumber from nearby forests.

Arnold’s small fleet of 12 vessels of various sizes and capabilities sailed down the Lake to Valcour Island in August 1776 to surprise the British under General Carleton as they advanced south.  Carleton’s armada, constructed at the north end of the Lake in St. Johns, set sailed in October.  A fierce battle ensued that lasted two days after the British encountered the American fleet at Valcour.  The Americans were battered by the more heavily armed British vessels and were forced to retreat.  Most of the American vessels were sunk and many casualties were suffered. But the battle caused the British to return north for the winter, delaying their ill-fated march south toward the Hudson and Saratoga to the following year.”

The town wall here has ample place for tying several vessels with a few posts for electric near the new Visitor’s Centre and Municipal Office.  We are tied in front of a very distinguished Tug called ‘URGER’.  ‘URGER’  is owned by the State of New York and was placed on the National Register of Historic Places by the United States Department of the Interior in 2001…its 100^th birthday.  ‘URGER’  is undergoing some fresh paint and will no doubt be a distinguished part of the New York Canals July 4^th celebrations.

Skene Manor makes for a splendid view as we approach the town docks at the Whitehall Visitor’s Centre.  High on the hill, it looks down over the harbour and intrigues visitors to come and hear its story.  We decided to walk up and tour the lovely home and hear first hand how a small group of Whitehall residents banded together to save this town landmark.  A buyer from Connecticut had made an offer to purchase the home and have it dismantled stone by stone and taken back to be rebuilt on his lot in Connecticut.  The group quickly joined forces to raise money to purchase the home and restore it to.  Lunches are served Friday, Saturday and Sunday in an effort to cover restoration costs.  Other fund-raisers are held ongoing and they have now restored two of the three floors.  We really enjoyed our tour of the Manor and grounds and especially the view from top of the hill.

Later in the evening, Terry and Carol arrived from Daytona.  After a long flight and a lengthy taxi ride they looked tired.  We enjoyed a leisurely supper on the sundeck of Takitez with the lovely view of Skene Manor on our stern.  Dessert was served uptown at Stewarts, a local ice-cream haven where we met up with several other boaters from the dock.

Tomorrow we would enter the final lock of the Champlain Canal and be lowered into the waterway connecting to Lake Champlain.  We were eagerly looking forward to cruising this pristine area.

 In 1609, a month before Henry Hudson sailed up the Hudson River, French explorer Samuel de Champlain canoed south on the Richelieu River from Quebec and became the first European to see what would become known as Lake Champlain.  His exploration would lead to a French settlement in this area.

In September 1609, Henry Hudson and a crew of 16 sailed the 60-foot Dutch ship Half Moon up the river almost to Albany and found a “pleasant land,” “high mountains,” and a river “full of fish.”  Hudson’s discoveries led to the Dutch settlement of the valley and a great commerce corridor encompassing the Hudson, Richelieu, and St. Lawrence rivers and the Erie and Champlain canals.

On August 17, 1807, Robert Fulton’s ‘Clermont’, left Manhattan and traveled the 150 miles to Albany in 32 hours –the first successful long-distance steamboat trip.  Robert Fulton and Robert Livingston established a successful steamboat enterprise on the Hudson River, which was the beginning of a transportation revolution.  With Nicholas J. Roosevelt, they built the first steamboat, the ‘New Orleans’, to motor western river ways.

Like the early explorers before us, we too were rewarded with enchanting scenic vistas, hidden harbours and coves, high cliffs known as the Palisades, and the lovely Catskill Mountains in the distance.  Today, there are some grand bridges towering above the river and lovely, stately homes.  The George Washington Bridge is bumper-to-bumper traffic, and we are thankful to be passing along at our leisurely pace below the busy through fare.

One of the dramatic sights when approaching north on the Hudson, is Historic West Point as it sits atop its rocky cliff.  It is a magnificent sight to behold indeed. 

Our destination for the night will be the Mariner’s Restaurant by the Poughkeepsie-Highland Railroad Bridge.  The Erie Railroad used the bridge, the first span across the Hudson at Albany, from 1888 through World War II.  The bridge is now a Quadricentennial Legacy project, and has been renovated as a walkway.

We would have dinner at the restaurant here and stay the night on their free dock.  Here the trains run along the edge of the river on both sides.  It can get a bit noisy at times as they sound their whistle just by the restaurant.  I wondered how we would sleep with the rackit but we were so tired, it wasn’t a problem.

We pass, some different-looking lighthouses, shorter and built with small homes attached that housed families before automation took over.

We note that some of the Skipper Bob notes referring to free docks at Catskills and Troy are no longer valid.

One of the first places we visit is ‘Ground Zero’ to pay tribute to all who lost their lives on September 11, 2001.  We stopped by the WTC Visitor Center and paused at the memorial there.  Firehouse #10 is directly across from the WTC site.  A Memorial Plaque on the front of the Fire hall honours those that lost their lives that fateful day.  We visited nearby St. Paul’s Church, where thousands of volunteers helped restore hope and offer shelter, food and comfort to all who laboured in the aftermath of 911.  Its doors remain open today welcoming visitors to stop by for reflection, to view pictures, displays and testimonials of that horrific day.   

For three decades, ”The Sphere” stood in the plaza of the World Trade Center.  The sculpture was conceived by artist Fritz Koenig as a symbol of world peace.  It was damaged during the tragic events of 911, but endures as an icon of hope and the indestructible spirit of this country.  “The  Sphere” was moved to a nearby park on March 11, 2002 as a temporary memorial to all who lost their lives in the terrorist attacks on The World Trade Center.  The eternal flame was ignited on September 11, 2002 in honour of all those who were lost.  Their spirit and sacrifice will never be forgotten.

Statue of Liberty:

The New Colossus – - By Emma Lazarus, 1883

“Not like the brazen giant of Greek fame,

With conquering limbs astride from land to land,

Here at our sea-washed, sunset-gates shall stand

A mighty woman with a torch, whose flame

Is the imprisoned lightning, and her name

Mother of Exiles.  From her beacon-hand

Glows world-wide welcome, her mild eyes command

The air-bridged harbour that twin-cities frame.

“Keep, ancient lands, your storied pomp!” cries she,

With silent lips.  “Give me your tired, your poor,

Your huddled masses yearning to breathe free,

The wretched refuse of your teeming shore;

Send these, the homeless, tempest-tost to me,

I lift my lamp beside the golden door!” 

Even before it took its place at America’s gateway, the Statue of Liberty overwhelmed those who saw it.  Parisians, watching the statue’s construction in their city in the 1880s, proclaimed it “the eight marvel of the world.”  Set atop its pedestal in 1886, it was the tallest structure in New York City — and the tallest statue in the world.  A German immigrant whose ship passed by in the 1920s recalled that “my mother rushed us to the window, to see this magic statue standing there.  Now we were going to go to heaven.”

To visitors today, the statue’s sheer size can obscure its meaning.  Consider the philosophy of its sculptor, Auguste Bartholdi:  “Colossal statuary does not consist simply in making an enormous statue.  It ought to produce an emotion in the breast of the spectator, not because of its volume, but because its size is in keeping with the idea that it interprets, and with the place which it ought to occupy.”

The Making of Liberty

Liberty, this most American of Americans, was itself an immigrant.  In 1865 a group of French intellectuals led by Edouard de Laboulaye, protesting what they saw as political repression in their own country, decided to honour the ideals of freedom and liberty with a symbolic gift to the United States. 

The time was right:  the Civil War was over, slavery was abolished, and the nation looked toward its centennial.  Nationalism, prosperity, and new technology brought forth an era of monument building.  Auguste Bartholdi, Laboulaye’s young sculptor friend, seized the chance to create a modern-day Colossus.

Twenty-one years later and an ocean away “Liberty Enlightening the World” stood complete in New York Harbor.  At the 1886 dedication, the president of France proclaimed that Liberty would “magnify France beyond the seas.”

But Liberty’s image was already being transformed in its adopted home.  Amid massive immigration in the late 19^th century, the notion of Liberty as the “Mother of Exiles” touched the minds and hearts of the public despite a growing number of restrictive immigration laws.  As immigration plummeted during World War I, Liberty’s role evolved:  staring out from glossy posters, admonishing citizens to buy war bonds or enlist in the military, Liberty was America personified.

Later years have seen an endless parade of guises.  The image of the statue has been used to lead political movements, satirize national policy, sell lemons, illuminate living rooms, and attract tourists from around the world.  The shaping and reshaping of its symbolism, over time and throughout the world, makes experiencing the original statue in its original setting all the more important – and wondrous. 

*Information obtained from…

- National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior

Statue of Liberty National Monument

New Jersey/New York  

As we approached the Statue of Liberty in our very own boat, ‘Takitez II’, it was a momentous occasion for us.  This was the highlight of our entire Great Loop cruise this past year.  This famous Statue was an icon of hope reaching out…’enlightening’ our way as we entered this huge, bustling harbour… a milestone…  we made it here after all!  Our arrival here is also a great reminder that we are nearing the end of our journey home!

We were delighted to have Annette, Sonya and Tony along to film this final episode of the documentary and share this special moment with us. 

First they filmed us from shore as we passed Ms Liberty, then the crew came aboard to do some onboard filming as we passed the Statue again.  With all the excitement, it raised the suspicion of the Coastguard and they soon approached asking permission to come aboard.  The officers were very polite, asking questions about our goings on and asking for our ID.  Everything checked out and they eventually received the okay back from headquarters to release us!  They apologized for taking so long, but we knew they were just doing their job…”no problem!” 

It was time to break out the Champagne and celebrate!!!

The New Jersey ICW is very scenic with its green sections of marsh grasses and lovely homes that dot its shore. 

It was a good day for travel and we carried on to Utsch’s Marine, Cape May where we topped up with fuel.  The Harbour is fairly shallow, so we were careful to stay in the channel and use the rising tide to help us along.  We got a good lift from the current too, sometimes doing 11 knots. 

From Utsch’s, we followed ‘Amalia’ over to Sunset Lake to anchor for the night.  This is a nice big anchorage near a park with steps leading down into the Lake.  It was a great place for walking Rosie and just down the road was a small bakery were we picked up some cinnamon buns in the morning. 

The following day, ‘Puffin’ joined us in the anchorage.  Due to bad weather on the horizon for the afternoon, we decided to stay here another night at anchor.  This lake seems to be a popular spot for PWCs and there were a couple buzzing around but didn’t stay long.  Once school is out, I guess it is a different story.  Apparently they can ride in the anhorage here without an operator’s license and this makes it popular for kids.  

Thursday morning, we headed out for Fish Lake.  It was a great travel day and we made good time. 

By early afternoon, we were in Atlantic City with its towering casinos.  We passed the Trump Hotel and Casino, several large developments including Harrah’s which is visible from a long distance.  From our anchorage at Fish Lake, we could still see them in the skyline behind.  

Atlantic City is where the popular Monopoly Game was first created.  Charles Darrow, a salesman from Germantown, Pennsylvania, lost his job to the Great Depression.  To pass his idle time, he and his wife would talk of better times, namely past vacations at their favorite destination, Atlantic City.  Eventually, 

Atlantic City from Fish Creek

Darrow got to doodling, and drew a game grid on his tablecloth.  Still reminiscing, he filled each grid box with the name of a street or an avenue between Absecon Inlet and Park Place, surrounding the beloved Boardwalk.  Using paint samples from a local merchant, he coloured the spaces and matched their hues on cardboard “deeds” for each property.  From salvaged wood scraps he made houses and hotels.  Play money and a pair of dice rounded out his new game. 

Most of Darrow’s friends were also jobless during those tough times, so they dropped by often.  One evening Darrow broke out his invention, and it caught on like wildfire.  Before long he was taking orders and producing copies as quickly as he could.  Soon retail stores in Philadelphia and New York demanded some of his games to stock their shelves and eventually Parker Brothers purchased the rights in 1933.  Monopoly was an instant success.  Today it is printed in several dozen languages. 

Friday, morning we left early to continue up the ICW.  Saturday, sounds good to go up the coast to NYC so we decided to anchor on the Metedeconk River at the edge of Breton Woods.  We were joined again by ‘Amalia’.  From the anchorage we trekked about a mile to a mall with a large A&P Store to pick up some supplies.  The Produce Assistant Manager was kind enough to give us a lift back to the American Legion where we had left our dinghy.  It was so sweet of her to do this and she didn’t mind that we had Rosie with us.  She said it was fine and that she had a dog too.  We have met some of the nicest people! 

Tomorrow will be an early start.  We would like to reach Sandy Hook around noon to catch the tide and current right.  We will stay at Great Kills Yacht Club, a private club on Staten Island that welcomes Loopers.  They offer a discount rate which is a deal for NYC.  We will plan to stay until Monday morning at least, then do our final filming episode with the ARD documentary crew.  The weather for the w/e calls for rain through until Monday/Tuesday.

We so much enjoyed the cruise up the Bay in relatively calm waters and beautiful sunshine.  The shoreline was very picturesque with its rolling hills, forested slopes and many colourful lighthouses.

 By mid-afternoon, we arrived at our overnight anchorage in Chesapeake City just past the Bridge.  Due to three boats spaced  poorly apart, the courtesy dock wall was full.  Since we arrived at low tide, the depths there would not have permitted us to get there anyway…we were kicking up mud.  We went deeper into the harbour and found an anchorage with good holding.  A pretty spot good with good access for taking Rosie to shore at a launch ramp in the corner.

There was a custom steel trawler here, ‘Amalia’ (Greg & Leslie Marsh).  By nightfall, several sailboats had also arrived in the anchorage.  We ended up travelling with Amalia and ‘Puffin’ (a Lord Nelson Tug) for the next few days.